From Cuernavaca we traveled south to the ruins of Xochicalco. This place was as big and impressive as many sites we’ve visited, but there was almost nobody there. When we arrived there was one other couple roaming the grounds. Pyramids, ball courts, temples, and 1300 year-old history were all good. Lowe would have happily climbed all day long.
The observatory was unique. It was a cave underneath some of the buildings and had a chimney that was used to allow the study of the movement of the sun. Today you walk into a dark cave filled with bats zooming around and all you can see (once the guard turns off his flashlight) is a single shaft of light. I tried to get the kids to stand still underneath it for a total of .5 seconds—it wasn’t possible.
From there it was another hour to Taxco, one of our favorite Mexican cities based mainly on the fact that it is built right into the side of a mountain. The town is so steep and narrow that it is a chore just to walk around and is almost impossible to drive. Because of this the town is chock full of VW bug taxis—the most logical car for driving in these tiny spaces. The drivers have removed the passenger seats and tied a rope to the door so they can let you into the backseat and then pull the door closed themselves.
We were in a rental car and almost immediately upon driving up our first street I realized we were lost and there was nowhere to move to get out of the way. Fortunately a taxi pulled alongside of us. I told him our hotel name and said I’d follow him. It’s the only reason we’re still alive.
The view across the valley as we approached Taxco.
If you don’t know who this is then you haven’t spent enough time in Mexico yet. Frida lives on everywhere.
After visiting the mirador way up above town we got to enjoy the hair-raising ride back down. Cars going downhill have the right-of-way, and it was kind of fun to see how instantly a car going uphill would stop and reverse its way right back down a hill if the road was only wide enough for one—which is generally the case.
12 Comments on “Taxco”
Man! I’m snorting this stuff…
Love seeing Mexico through your eyes. Amazing!
What a beautiful town!! That looks like somewhere I could hang for a while..
Ever been in Taxco for the urban downhill mountain bike race? It is an amazing party.
Oh, and Frieda looked like a homely man, except in that painting.
No, but I’ve seen videos. Insane. Would love to be there to see it live sometime.
Great pic of you and Ali. Fun times.
Thanks, it was a fun day.
Taxco is one of the places in Mexico that owns part of my heart! I have wanted to go back there since the day I stepped foot in that beautiful village turned town. I went there in my junior year (1978) on a band trip. One day…. meanwhile, thanks for the walk down memory lane. Looks like a lot of changes since my visit.
Glad you didn’t attempt to drive the bus into Taxco.
I occasionally travel to Mexico for work and your photos of the streets really capture what I love about it. The towns have a gritty edgy feel to them but are still safe enough to enjoy without worrying about your family. The decay and chaos is intriguing and beautiful. In the U.S. you either get areas with a Disney World artificial feel, or if you want a gritty vibe you usually need to go to a really bad neighborhood. Not so in Mexico, you can get a lived-in real world vibe without getting mugged or carjacked. It’s a wonderful place.
By far my favorite of your photos so far!
Pat and Ali,
I’m late to the party, but thank you for sharing your travels with us. It’s a real generosity of spirit. I was hoping you would end up in Taxco….I’ve spent several weekends here when working in the DF (started my hobby of collecting silver jewelry in Taxco). Glad to see it passes the “Bum” test…and you all love it as much I as do. Look forward to reading more adventures!