First step upon arriving in a new country is getting cleared in. Atuona is a pretty two-mile walk around the bay and down the hill into the next. There isn’t much there—two small restaurants, a couple of magasins (stores), a post office, a bank, and a gendarmerie.
We arrived just after noon, so the gendarmerie and the stores were closed. We sidled up to the Mango Bar for some drinks and snacks, fed chickens for an hour and a half, then headed back over to the coppers to get checked in.
Clearing into French Polynesia is fairly easy, so long as you only stay three months. They do have 6-month visas available, but those require ridiculous amounts of paperwork and embassy visits before you even leave for the islands. We went in, filled out one piece of paper, and were handed back our stamped passports. We were supposed to already have proof that we could afford to leave the country, in the form of paid return airline tickets. We didn’t have those yet, so he just told us to get them and send proof via e-mail. He also handed us a sheet of paper that we had to take to the post office and mail to Tahiti. We went home later, booked super-expensive fully refundable tickets to San Francisco, received our confirmation e-mails that we immediately forwarded to the gendarmerie, and then canceled our flights. Easy enough.
If the weather had been more settled, or the World ARC hadn’t invaded the bay, we probably would have stayed longer in Hiva Oa, but the anchorage just wasn’t comfortable or enjoyable this way, so we prepared to move on.
Instead of going with the permanently mounted marine BBQ, we decided to give this simple setup a try. The Cuisinart is small and easy to store away. It was also cheap. Despite that, I really like how well it cooks. Temp is well distributed, and it fits 8 pork chops. Chops that we’ve been saving for a celebratory landfall dinner.
Georgie didn’t get out much while on passage, but he’s doing good and is getting a lot more play time now that we’re settled in.
This has to be one of the most scenic haul-out boatyards in the world. They actually have a fairly well stocked chandlery, too. Wasn’t able to find any of the stuff I need, unfortunately, but I couldn’t expect much in the electronics department.
We grabbed some baguettes and 10 gallons of diesel, and were off to the nearby island of Tahuata.
Seas were a sloppy mess in the mile wide channel between the two islands. Nothing much to do about it but close your eyes and wait for the calm seas on the backside of the island.
The first bay was jam packed.
A few miles further along the crowds dispersed a bit and we dropped anchor in Baie Hanatefau where we hope to snorkel with giant mantas.
Felt good to spend our first truly calm night at anchor in a month.
12 Comments on “Tahuata”
What a wonderful place to land on.
Wow ! Looks like paradise.
Awesome! I presume you will eventually wander north to Nuku Hiva. As you probably know, the main bay at Taiohae is pretty rolly with an awful dinghy dock, but $5 for a kilo of tuna fresh on the dock cannot be beat. I also had a week in nearby Hakatea Bay, also known as Daniel’s Bay, although he is no more, which was lovely.
What about the water tanks???
So beautiful! We have the same grill for our motorhome. Works so well. Really enjoying your trip/life!
Sounds like the destination was worth the journey. Can’t wait to follow the tropical adventures!
Congratulations on another successful passage! Thanks for sharing.
Polynesian paradise
Visual feast…thku! Goodonyas!
It’s hard to believe how beautiful these islands are!!
That place looks amazing. Thanks for the postings.
Not sure if it is important to you, but I saw your Wanderer Financial logo being used on a local news internet site.
https://diariodelhuila.com/como-tener-mas-tiempo-en-sus-vacaciones/
It is in Colombia, so not sure what one can do about it, just thought you should know.
Love your adventures, be well!
David