Oaxaca has two distinct faces, at least from what we’ve seen so far. One face is around the Zócalo area. The town’s main plaza is not at all what we’ve come to expect in Mexico. In Oaxaca it is used as a place for protests, sit-ins, and generally showing ones disapproval with the government. It is, for the most part, not a very appealing place. Tents cover the grounds, garbage cans are completely absent, tarps hang from every available anchor, and numerous drunk men feel the need to try and interact with our kids.
But that’s just the zócalo. The city is much more than that. The streets in every direction from there are lined with food, fruit, and craft sellers. And once we got away a few blocks from there the sidewalks opened up a bit, everything looked a little brighter, and the mood felt lighter.
A few short blocks from where we are staying in the nearby town of Santa María del Tule is the Árbol de Tule—the trunk circumference is 138 feet, by far the biggest trunk in the world. As we stood looking at it Ouest commented that she could see a lion in one of the gnarls which I thought was interesting because we hadn’t yet told her that the tree is also called the Tree of Life due to the images of animals that people apparently see in the trunk.
The sign said that the common name of these green things is Old Balls. Hmm.
Summer is rainy season, which in most places just means that around four the sky clouds up and drops an hour of sprinkles. Which cools everything off quite nicely for the night. I don’t mind summers down here one bit.
We woke up to some fog which seemed perfect for wandering around the moss covered cemetery.
Then back to downtown Oaxaca. Ouest brought her own money today, determined to get a toy that we said no to yesterday. She still finds money on an almost daily basis. Just yesterday she found eleven pesos. If we get her a metal detector I’m sure she could start pulling in some serious bank for the family.
Nobody does over the top architecture like religion does. Not even rap stars.
We found this nice restaurant overlooking the plaza where the kids could rain down bubbles on the unsuspecting.
Every time Lowe would pull the trigger on this bubble maker his jaw would move in tandem. I thought for sure he’d be too sore to eat dinner that night.
It’s not every day that thirty pesos can bring this many hours of happiness to our kids.
Reminding myself that he is still just a little boy. His filthy fingernails after a day of play make me smile. He was out cold in my lap while Ali and Ouest did the grocery shopping.
15 Comments on “Oaxaca”
Oaxaca is famous for the cheese and cooking schools. I’m surprised you didn’t have pictures of food.
Well, it has only been a day or two. We’re not leaving for a while. Though I doubt I’ll take any pictures of cheese. 🙂
Oaxaca is also famous for it’s deep fried grasshoppers. Great snack with beer. 🙂
When we were there, the taxi drivers were on strike one day, and the teachers the next. Apparently there’s always somebody on strike. It would be the most frustrating city to live it…
From the blog: “Reminding myself that he is still just a little boy. His filthy fingernails after a day of play make me smile. He was out cold in my lap while Ali and Ouest did the grocery shopping.”
Clearly you’re not playing hard enough, Pat . . . your fingernails are way too clean. 🙂
(That’s a great picture of Lowe’s little hand in yours.)
TJ
Oaxaca is also known for their silver jewelry. I figured there would be lots of that being sold by street vendors. Maybe it’s time for Ouest and Ali to go shopping!
I’m so happy to travel with you. I look forward to every new post and I’m never disappointed. Thank you Pat and Ali, Ouest and Lowe for taking me along.
Thanks, Sherry. Happy to have you along.
I loved Oaxaca, especially the food. But I also have friends there. Chipulines are not every mans beer, the small ones are OK. But, the mole is incredible if you can find a good local place. I recommend climbing to the top of the butte behind the ruins of Yagul for the incredible view, and the petrified waterfall at “Hierve el agua”. I payed a collectivo to drive us over the mountain and back from Mitla. Also judging by your previous blogs, you would probably love the Tlayluda. I think it might be all about getting away from the Zocolo.
Isn’t it really hot now?
Not at all. Jeans and t-shirt weather. Eighty degrees during the day and fifty-five at night. Perfect. Oaxaca sits at over 5,000 feet in elevation, like most of central Mexico, which is why the summers are so nice.
Another awesome entry! Keep ‘m coming.
We have sponsored a child a the Oaxaca Street Children Grassroots school in the city since 2006. Check it out. You will love exploring the great ruins outside the city: We loved Monte Alban but I especially enjoyed the smaller Mitla with its geometric designs.
Some stunning photography. Blue wall and mats, teen friends in a secluded spot 🙂
I hope you didn’t tip that guy too much, the drawing doesn’t look that much like you.
It’s always a treat to see your photography. It’s also fun for me to find weird Japanese in Mexoco! That photo with the kids in front of the tree (btw, loved the story that went with it AND that she saw a lion) the sign is in Japanese. Probably the sign was written by non-native, and it says “it is forbidden. Tree branches”. Find it interesting that they figure it’s the Japanese that try and take branches from the tree. It would’ve been more effective if they had said it was sacred, and they wouldn’t have taken it. If you ever get a chance I think you’d like a Miyazaki film called My Neighbour Totoro. It’s an animated film that features a huge sacred tree and its mysterious spirit/monster.