Twenty years ago when Ali and I sailed north from Sydney up along the coast of Australia every single person we talked to told us how perfect the winds blow when you’re sailing north. So, no surprise, it felt as if we never had good winds. All I remember of that trip north was beating into the wind, near death river bar crossings, and racing storms into ports in the dark. This time, however, the wind gods have smiled upon us. Every day brings more wind than forecast, but thankfully, it’s always from the right direction, blowing from behind with following seas.

Today’s run took us to the Low Isles, home of a historic lighthouse and small museum. It’s also a hot spot for boats on day tours from the mainland, for a lighthouse visit and a snorkel. I arrived hopeful of some good snorkeling, but the strong winds had turned everything into a silt covered mess.

Whales taking a detour through the anchorage. While we weren’t able to see them during our snorkeling, we were able to hear them.

We spent a couple of days hanging out around the island, trying to snorkel with the turtles (with little luck), visiting the lighthouse and museum, and just stretching our legs on the short ten minute loop around the beach.

After a couple of days at the Low Isles, we sailed north for the Hope Islands. Once again the whales joined us.

We were flying along in a stiff breeze when the whales started to pop up all around us, and really close. No matter how much we turned, they seemed to be right there. I really didn’t want one of these guys launching himself onto the front deck. I’ve seen enough of those videos to know that never ends well for the boat.