We set off from St. Croix as the sun came up. We’d been there nearly five months, and had grown comfortable with the rhythm of our life there. We had friends who had landed on the island and never left, and while we can certainly see the appeal of that, it also has some of that smothering sense that a small town does—at least for us. We were excited to be underway, with a horizon we’d never crossed before in front of us.
Right as we were pulling south of the island a number of whales swam past. It was as if we were on a road, with us passing perfectly parallel to each other just a baseball toss away.
The Sargassum was a legit problem. There was so much of it that trying to steer around the big patches all day was an impossible task. We would know we had caught a bunch whenever the boat got a particular vibration/rumble. To get rid of it I’d turn us 180 degrees to point us into the waves, slow down, drop into neutral, and then give the engines a quick shot in reverse. We’d immediately see a plume of seaweed come drifting out from underneath us. We could then get back underway. This was easy enough to do in our relatively calm seas, but I’m not really sure what I’d have done in heavy seas. We’re a heavy boat that blasts a fairly large wake off the bow, clearing most of the seaweed away from the gear underneath, but I imagine small sailboats are really struggling with this stuff.
Long day at sea. Thankful that the weather did exactly what was predicted. Ten knots of wind, and small seas on our aft-quarter, make for a comfortable ride on Bumfuzzle.
With darkness approaching we had a few dolphins join our bow wake for a swim. Whales in the morning, dolphins at night. Not bad.
Day two’s conditions mirrored day one.
In particularly bad seaweed areas I’d make a half-hearted effort to avoid the biggest bunches.
We awoke on day three with Bonaire on the horizon. This is the point that the kids started with the, “How much longer ’til we get there?” The final four hours couldn’t pass any slower.
The entire west end of the island is roadless National Park. It’s beautiful.
The orange straps on the front of the cockpit are to hold the bimini steady side to side. Normally people have big braces built into the bimini, but we came up with this solution, which we think is much better. It allows us to throw the straps on when we are headed to sea, but take them down for unobstructed views the other 99% of the time when they aren’t needed. Far less obtrusive.
We pulled into Harbour Village marina for the first couple nights. This made clearing in and getting the boat cleaned up much easier. They were super helpful and friendly, and surprisingly inexpensive.
Clearing into Bonaire right now isn’t too difficult. We needed COVID rapid tests completed within 72 hours of arrival, which we were able to make with a few hours to spare. The marina called customs for us and they told us to come on down to check in. Paperwork at the office was a simple one page declaration, and immigration hardly glanced at us. No charge, and us Americans get six months in the islands. This, apparently, is a contentious point with some Europeans who don’t have it so good.
Bonaire is a marine reserve, so no anchoring anywhere. After a couple nights in the marina we’ll be joining the fifty or so boats on the mooring balls. Apparently, this place can fill up, and when it does you have no choice but a marina or leaving the island. Walking the road we spotted just a few remaining.
The post-passage boat wash.
Back to work.
Feels good to be somewhere new, finding our way around, figuring out what place has the best ice cream, which dive shop to use, which mooring to grab, and what adventures to go on while we’re here. Bonaire gives a good first impression.
24 Comments on “Hallo Bonaire”
Nice pictures- seems like a boring and relaxing passage which is exactly what you want.
Question- did you run just 1 engine on the passage? Engine levers to stbd seemed in neutral/stopped
No. Levers on the left side are for gearbox forward/reverse, levers on the right side are the throttles.
Extreme island-hopping! I had been wondering which island was next, wasn’t expecting you to go straight south. I’m looking forward to the further adventures!
Yep. There’s something about new vistas; they feed the soul. Looking good! Enjoy!
BTW, wife Kristina and I ordered a Leisure Travel Van Unity MB a while back, ETA early/mid 2022. We’re looking forward to full-timing. Wheee!
Congratulations! Those look like really nice rigs for full-timing.
We have a picture of Tata Jan from Nov 2011, looks like she’s had a paint job since then, her waterline was red. Love it!!! Bonaire is a lovely quiet island.
Cool. I was singing to the kids this weekend – I think we’re going to like it here.
Glad that you had a good passage and finally got going!! lol…Stay safe!!
Bonaire has some excellent diving, there is a wreck just offshore that is very nice. The ship is upside down with the prop up, good for pics. Enjoy!
Yes, the crew is looking forward to the diving. That got all “used” geared up and a 15 tank each punch card. Woot! Woot!
Hi Pat, lovely post, do you think you’ll ever go back to a sailboat??
Market wise do you think we’re teaching the end of this insane bull run??
Rgds, Andy
We’ll go back to a sailboat as soon as we feel like crossing the Atlantic or Pacific. Aside from that we’re pretty well convinced at this point that there is zero reason for sails.
As for the market, I’m not calling for a top. I always keep in mind that the markets can remain irrational longer than you can remain solvent.
Hey Bumfuzzle! We’ve spent a lot of time in Bonaire to visit some former cruising friends who lived there for a few years. For some unsolicited advice, rent a car and drive through Slagbai and then get out to the amazing dive sites all over the island. You can just walk out from the beach. There are also great snorkeling spots off the main harbor and near the airport.
It’s so amazing seeing the kids growing up! We love to check in on your site every now and then to see where you are now. Take care!
Glad to hear from you, Stephanie. Hope you and Warren are doing great!
Was wondering what your hurricane season plan was! Good on you for getting out early and hope you can secure a mooring before the masses get the same idea. Often considered running to the ABC islands when threaten by hurricanes while working as captain on big cats in St. Thomas/St. Croix. Sure wish I would have when Hurricane Hugo hit in Sept. 1989 as it came straight over St. Croix, then Ensenada Honda Culebra before skirting Puerto Rico and hammering Charleston. Friends on other multihulls sheltered in Salt River and were some of the first casualties air lifted off island as that Cat 4-5 pummeled the place. I rode it out aboard a 76 foot cat in the lagoon on the southeast side of St. Thomas and been often asked what advise I would supply to others to survive a similar storm. It is pretty simple really – get the heck out of there!
Yes, after staying in Puerto Rico last hurricane season, we (I) did not want to risk another season in the belt. Looks to be about 5 moorings still open at the moment…
Yay…a new adventure! Love Bonaire. Wondered if you might share the route with us (curious if you stayed on the lee sides of the islands or cut straight across the sea)? Also I agree with the recommendation on exploring Sagbraai…very different from the rest of the island. Beautiful both by land and sea. Wakata Bay has some of the best snorkeling on the island IMHO….and the snorkeling guide is fun if the kids want to read up on the snorkeling sites.
Enjoy it, just a fun island. Looking forward to future updates….
Straight shot across the sea from St. Croix to Bonaire.
Well except when we were dodging seaweed lands. 😉
500 miles + or – at 10 knots = 50 hours or 500 gallons of fuel?
Are you talking about our boat? Those aren’t our numbers at all.
420 miles at 8.5 knots at 5 gallons per hour = 250 gallons
Thanks Pat! I guess I was only close on the amount of hours for the crossing. Your GB seems to get great mileage averaging over 1-1/2 miles per gallon.
Hi Ali! I came across your posts because I’m considering a trip to Bonaire and worrying about the sargassum. Is it a problem? We’d be going for the snorkeling. Thanks in advance! Happy cruising!
Tricia
It was bad when we were crossing over open water from St. Croix to Bonaire. But once at Bonaire I don’t recall seeing it. You should be good to go! Enjoy it!