Drift diving is the one and only activity on Tahanea. We watch the tide table, wait until a little bit after the incoming tide begins, dinghy just outside the pass into deep water, and jump in for the ride. No work required. Just float at a couple of knots while the view below constantly changes. First the dark endless blue, then a hint of white as the bottom comes swiftly higher (dozens of sharks linger along the bottom in this area), and finally up to around forty feet where the colors and the fish fill in the ocean floor. Twenty or thirty minutes later, climb back in the dinghy, motor out, jump back in and repeat.
Cool looking sea cucumber with a snowy vibe. Fun fact: sea cucumbers breathe through their butt.
One big thing worth mentioning is just how much better the condition of the ocean is out here versus the Caribbean. I have yet to see a single piece of plastic float past me or lying tangled in the coral. The Caribbean is a literal trash dump compared to these waters. Additionally, the sea life is so much more abundant here. The clarity is better, and the coral appears healthier (though maybe less varied than in Bonaire). For those that have spent considerable time in both waters, the difference is startling.
I was snorkeling with Ouest and mentioned how much I liked all the different colors of the clams. She said that their coloring reminded her of galaxies. I thought that was a great description.
We had a fun drift dive that went a couple of hundred yards from the edge of the reef where ocean waves spilled over, into a “canyon” section about twenty feet deep, and then deposited sand almost right up to the surface at the end of the run. There was just enough water, maybe one foot, to ride the current (2-3 knots) over that shallow section while lying flat before it spit you out into this area about three feet deep. We were side by side as we came over that lip and found this blacktip just waiting at its edge, totally hidden until the last second. Obviously, we were too big for his lunch, but it was funny how all three of us seemed to register the same surprised reaction. We carried on and he returned back to his spot just under the lip.
One of our favorite reef features are the tiny fish that seem to live their entire lives within a few inches of coral like this. They hover just outside of it most of the time, then retreat inside when a threat like us passes by. You can feel their eyes follow you past, and then they come right back out in unison.
Dog owner when he thinks nobody is looking.
Our supplies are running so incredibly low. Ali came up with a nice little tortilla taco pizza for the last of the vegetables. Fingers crossed for more tortillas once we hit Tahiti. We’d sure love some ground beef right about now, too.
The other day I looked at how Lowe had tied up the dinghy and realized it was time for a quick refresher lesson on the cleat hitch before we found ourselves without a dinghy.
Our second anchorage in Tahanea. This one is on the east end, protected from some stronger winds that were on the way.
Lots of kid boats here on this atoll. Every age from 5 to 14 was represented, I think.
Boat kids may not have televisions and Playstations, but that doesn’t completely keep them from wreaking virtual murder and mayhem across online cities.
The coral bommies here were especially tall, requiring me to float the chain a bit higher with a bunch of fenders.
21 Comments on “Drifting in Tahanea”
Loved your observation that the pile on the seabed brought to mind a, “Dog owner when he thinks nobody is looking.”
I love dogs and have always had at least one sharing my life since I was about sixteen (I’m 75, now) and the single most irritating, disappointing thing about some dog owners is the way they are totally negligent about cleaning up after their dog. It’s disgusting, anti-social, ego-driven behavior (“What, ME, clean up after a DOG? No f…ing way!”).
Love the colors, your kidlets are growing like weeds…sea life sure agrees with them….
OK. You got me. What in the actual H is the “dog pile”?
Poop.
Poop from a Sea Cucumber
Hi Pat,
Looks amazing, no scary moments drift diving??
Andy
No. Just drift snorkeling for now. Headed diving tomorrow. Not expecting anything scary, though!
Being fans of all foods Mexican; I’m surprised Ali doesn’t make her own tortillas. When supplies are low you can get pretty inventive with food. I try to make a habit every six months or so of eating to clean out the freezer before I fill it up again. We have had some pretty weird combinations that way.
I love your comments about the sea life and it’s comparison to the Caribbean. It’s nice to know some parts of the planet are doing great.
I can’t imagine Ali trying to make enough tortillas for our ravenous family while simultaneously whipping up everything else to go along with them. Sounds nice in theory, though. 🙂
Is it safe swimming with all those sharks around?
They are just reef sharks. Harmless. There are some bigger sharks in the atolls, but just because they can eat you doesn’t mean they will. 😉
Tortilla pizza is great! I make those quite often. What was that dog pile in the ocean? Great pictures! The snorkel drifting sounds like a blast.
Sea cucumbers filtering the sand.
Having been fortunate enough to have stayed in Bonaire a few times I fully appreciate your colors comment. That said, my all time favorite underwater experience was drift diving at Rangaroa. Thanks for the vicarious memories.
Looks pretty idyllic. Nice to see there are impromptu socialization times on the beach for adults.
Love this batch of pics! When you drift dive, do you let the dinghy drift loose and it all works out, or does someone stay with the dinghy?
When drift snorkeling like this we just hold the line while we go. When diving we get dropped off and picked up.
Reading this entry on my phone, I really had to zoom in to find the reef shark. Nice camouflage.
Yeah, they often seem to appear out of nowhere.
How are you getting your weather?
Tom
I use PredictWind exclusively. Seems like everyone does these days.